International Women's Day: A celebration of female-led restaurants

A very special collaboration with Courtney Presley—your connoisseur behind Corner Booth, featuring a collection of female-owned and led restaurants, plus, book-meets-bar pairings

Happy International Women’s Day!

I’m sending this Sunday’s edition from Tokyo—a destination that’s lived on my vision boards for so long that it’s surreal to be seeing it with my own eyes. For the full rundown on all things Japan, be sure to subscribe to Stay Awhile by SmartFlyer where I’ll be breaking down everything about our time here with Four Seasons. In the meantime, we just shared some exciting updates on an initiative built around female-owned hotels that I think you’ll also love.

As far as today’s edition of The Sunday Series, I’m beyond thrilled to be collaborating with none other than Courtney Presley, the discerning writer behind Corner Booth. Together, we’re using International Women’s Day to gush over the female-owned and led restaurants we both love across the city. Because each time you dine out is a chance to vote with your wallet—and when we can, we LOVE to put our money behind women, right?

I’ve been fangirling over Courtney’s Substack for quite some time, so this felt like the perfect moment to collaborate. If you’re on the hunt for someone who always knows the coolest bar, the coziest corner booth, and even the right book to bring along, she’s your girl. Brooklyn-based, Courtney’s New York restaurant recommendations are decidedly more geographically diverse than my West Village-centric recs—and for my fellow travel peeps, her curatorial lens extends even further. In particular, I know TSS subscribers would especially adore her little black book of 12 Paris mini itineraries. So without further ado, shall we dive in?

To honor International Women’s Day, Courtney and I did a fun little Q&A spotlighting some of our respective favorite female-owned and led restaurants in New York. I have a feeling you’re going to walk away from it with more than a few spots on your list!!!! We’d be thrilled to hear from you in the comments on where you’ll be prioritizing next—and if you’re feeling extra generous, a like or share on Substack to help this post reach more readers.

When you think about the women who shape New York’s dining scene, what spaces or people come to mind?

Courtney: My mind first goes to Rita Sodi and Jody Williams. With rigorously consistent, unwaveringly excellent restaurants like Via Carota and I Sodi, they’ve built institutions that define modern New York dining. Missy Robbins did something similar in Brooklyn with Lilia and Misi, bringing technical ambition to pasta but also instilling each with an energetic, slick swagger. I’m constantly amazed how chefs like Ayesha Nurdjaja at Shukette and Claire de Boer at King seem to deliver better and better meals every time I visit, raising the bar higher and higher.

And don’t even get me started on the meteoric rise and ongoing chokehold that Ha’s Snack Bar has on this city, thanks to co-owner Sadie Mae Burns. In the bakery world, Zoe Kanan at Elbow Bread and Kelly Mencin at Radio Bakery are reshaping how New Yorkers line up for carbs. I could keep going, but I’ll end with Annie Shi of Lei, who feels emblematic of where I like to think the city’s dining scene is headed: daring to invest in deeply personal projects, subverting expectations and continuing to expand the conversation.

Kayla: Echoing Courtney a bit here, but some of my favorite restaurants are under Rita Sodi and Jody Williams’ restaurant umbrella. I’ve been living in the West Village for over five years now, and Rita and Jody’s spots have fingerprints all over some of my most cherished memories! From the cozy brunch vibes at Commerce Inn, Paris-meets-New York charm of Buvette, lasagne with layers for days at I Sodi, aperitivo that makes you feel like you’re in Italy at Bar Pisellino, and of course, few moments are more iconic in downtown dining than a prime table at Via Carota, truly too many to count.

And when it comes to women influencing New York’s dining scene, I can’t not mention Ariel Arce. She’s behind so many of New York’s coolest spots, including owning Tokyo Record Bar and Pearl Box. Plus, she’s a part of the team that brought Roscioli from Rome to New York! As if that wasn’t enough, she has her own caviar company, Big Pearl Caviar.

Why does it matter who is behind the restaurant?

Kayla: Just like it matters what brands we shop, I do think it matters who is behind the restaurant. In an age where everything feels like it’s becoming more impersonal and an inundation of AI into all we do, hospitality is an industry that will always be powered by people. I’m a big proponent of becoming a regular somewhere, and the number one factor that influences me to want to come back to a restaurant time and time again is the people behind it. You can tell if you’re dining at the kind of place where someone wants to show up—where they have banter with their fellow servers and barbacks and the team in the kitchen. I want to support restaurants that feel like a place where people want to be.

Courtney: Kayla said it best! Behind any great thing, there’s a pair of hands that shaped it, a brilliant mind that dared to imagine it and a heart that injected it with soul. Restaurants are no exception, and learning more about the who, how and why behind them imbues dining experiences with so much more purpose and texture for me. There’s a story behind every corner booth, and I’m obsessed with uncovering it, supporting it and sharing it.

Tell us about a female chef or restaurateur you deeply admire.

Kayla: I’m low-key one of Caffè Panna’s biggest fans, so that admiration extends to its owner, Hallie Meyer. Sure, she’s the daughter of one of New York’s most legendary restaurateurs—so you could argue it’s in her blood to be in the hospitality business, but what she’s built feels distinct. I am forever in awe of the creative collaborations they churn out each week, as well as unique flavors at grocers like Murray’s Cheese and Meadow Lane. I just had a flavor last weekend (cherry oatmeal cookie with a cinnamon base!) that blew my mind.

Courtney: Ok now I have an intense craving for ice cream…

I’ve developed a slightly parasocial bordering on obsessive admiration for Patricia Howard, the co-founder of Dame, Lord’s and Crevette, after religiously following her since the pandemic-era fish and chips days. Along with her husband Ed Szymanski, they’ve now built an ambitious, sharply defined collection of restaurants, each with a distinct identity and carefully-crafted point of view. The palpable passion she pours into each project is magnetic, from sourcing vintage plates across Europe for Lord’s to figuring out creative solutions for the floor-to-ceiling black bathroom tiles that were once at Crevette. She also brings a sense of brutal honesty to the work, especially when it comes to sharing the realities of building a hospitality group while raising a newborn. She’s a force, both for what she builds and how she builds it.

Where do you go when you want to have a cathartic dinner with the women in your life?

Kayla: In the spirit of prioritizing female-owned, I’d like to plan my next girls dinner at King! I had the chance to go up to their sister restaurant, Stissing House, with my sister, mom, and aunts and was blown away. I love that the two are led and owned by chefs Jess Shadbolt and Clare de Boer, alongside GM/beverage director Annie Shi, with such a clear vision. King is so cozy, and the forever-changing menu is super seasonal—so, it goes straight to the top of the list for a little kiki.

Courtney: I spent about four hours at Stissing House the last time I was there to celebrate getting engaged with my sister, so I second that pick. In the city, I don’t even know how many hours I’ve spent locked in deep conversation with my closest girlfriends at the tiny wine bar Della’s, founded by Liz Nicholson, in Tribeca and Cherry on Top, founded by Cerise Zelenetz, in Bushwick. And yes, I know the question was about dinner, but the most cathartic moments often prioritize heavy amounts of wine.

What would your ideal three-part night celebrating women in the city look like?

Courtney: I have two itineraries up my sleeve that are on my mind to do this month with my sister or some girlfriends:

• A literary evening with seafood small plates in Cobble Hill: Head to one of the many upcoming book events I have my eye on at Books are Magic, featuring inspiring women in conversation, like Zahra Tangorrain with Helen Rosner or Holly Brickley with Coco Mellors. Afterward, I’d stroll down to Saint Julivert, a French wine bar from chef and co-owner Alex Raij, nestled right next to the peaceful Cobble Hill Park. End the night at one of my favorite women-owned bars in the area, such as Clover Club from Julie Reiner or TALEA from Tara Hankinson and LeAnn Darland.

• A cozy crafting-centric, pasta-fueled outing in Fort Greene: Peruse the workshops I’ve always been intrigued to try at ReCreate Collective, founded by Liz Chick, such as funky still life drawing or vintage beaded jewelry making. For dinner, savor Silvia Barban’s delectable pastas at LaRina Pastificio & Vino, before heading over to try a variety of wines at the Parisian-style bar from Cali Faulkner.

Kayla: Okay, the Books are Magic idea is soooo good! I love that New York always has a cultural activation we can sink our teeth into…one offering that’s been on my mind lately is frequenting the galleries in Chelsea more, particularly on Thursdays when many of them are buzzing. I’m looking forward to a warm spring night soon, when I meet up with friends at Nicola Vassell Gallery on W10th before moseying over to Shukette for dinner. I’m fortunate to work down the street, so it’s been a go-to for some time! I love nights when chef and owner Ayesha Nurdjaja is in the kitchen cranking out her signature Middle Eastern dishes. For a nightcap, we’d go to Bar Bonobo on the way back to the West Village; this female-owned bar on 8th has such fun cocktails, including a “CornStar Martini” that’s served with popcorn.

What’s one small way we can be more intentional about supporting women in hospitality?

Courtney: I’m going to cheat and say a few! Seek out and sip wines made by women—places like Aperitivo by Carta are even spotlighting women-owned and produced bottles this month, curated by wine director Rebecca Powelson. When you’re buying a hostess gift or dinner party essentials, skip Amazon and support women-led shops like Big Night from Katherine Lewin or Coming Soon from Helena Barquet and Fabiana Faria. Read the work of women writing about food and hospitality, like All Consuming by Ruby Tandoh, Care and Feeding by Laurie Woolever, Save Me the Plums by Ruth Reichl or Will This Make You Happy by Tanya Bush. Put in an order the next time there’s a Fillings drop or a Sour Cherries pop-up. And of course, show up and eat! This month is the perfect time to visit places on your list to try, like Bong from Chakriya Un, Sunn’s from Sunny Lee or Hellbender from Yara Herrera.

Kayla: Personally, I know I can do a lot better job of keeping a running list of female-owned restaurants that I can support. Courtney has given me so many ideas by way of this Q&A that I’ll for sure be taking note of!!!

What book would you bring to a solo dinner at a women-led restaurant right now to match the vibe?

Courtney: I’m itching to dig into the new short story collection Brawler, from one of my all-time favorite authors, Lauren Groff. Her lyrical writing packs the kind of profound, provocative punch that lingers with you long after the tale is over. The nine stories, described as reflections on “the ceaseless battle between humans’ dark and light angels,” deserve a setting that feels intimate and intentional, a place where you can take your time sipping some wine solo and letting each story settle in, somewhere like Plus du Vin in Williamsburg, co-owned by Carenn Mackinnon.

Kayla: Okay, I know the idea of solo dining puts most people into a tizzy, but I happen to love it—so long as I have my book in hand. I’d like to do a solo sesh at The Odeon bar, one of my favorite spots to walk-in in Tribeca. Female-owned since the 90s, it’s also an iconic watering hole. For this solo sesh, I’d bring along the copy of The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath that has been sitting on my nightstand for six months, as I’ve prioritized newer titles.

If you could invite three women to dinner in New York, who would they be and where would you go?

Courtney: To bring the conversation back full circle from the first question, I’d want to bring together Rita Sodi, Ayesha Nurdjaja and Annie Shi for a rich conversation on the past, present and future state of dining in New York. I wouldn’t be upset if Rita offered up a corner table at Via Carota for it.

Kayla: Reese Witherspoon, Jenna Bush Hager and Dua Lipa…the three book club magnets.

If you missed my post pairing tables to titles, may I humbly suggest you start there? I loved building on this list with Courtney, who is also using Women’s History Month as a reason to reach for books by women authors that dissect deeply female experiences, from sister dynamics (a plotline that always gets me!!) to marriage struggles to workplace pressures. Below are a few titles at the top of our lists, each paired with a women-owned bar or restaurant that matches the mood.

Courtney: Blue Sisters + L’Apero by L’Appartement 4F

Ever since devouring Cleopatra and Frankenstein by Coco Mellors—an all-time fave of mine—Courtney has been eager to read her second novel, Blue Sisters, which tells the story of three estranged sisters as they navigate the unexpected death of their fourth sister (cheery!). We both agree that Coco’s witty, beautiful, character-driven prose would unfold best when enjoyed in a candlelit, intimate space over wine and cheese, like L’Apero by L’Appartement 4F, co-owned by the lovely Ashley Coiffard.

Kayla: The Sicilian Inheritance + Lilia

Lilia in Williamsburg is a temple of handmade pasta and golden-hour light—where every bowl and every guest is treated like a small act of care. Pairs well with The Sicilian Inheritance by Jo Piazza because Lilia will keep you guessing, just like this fun, fast-paced book set in Sicily.

Courtney: Strangers: A Memoir of Marriage + Ci Siamo

With so much chatter and buzz around Belle Burden’s new memoir Strangers: A Memoir of Marriage, Courtney’s curiosity to pick it up has been sufficiently piqued. She knows this one may require a stiff martini and a rich bowl of pasta to pair with it, perhaps at the bar at Ci Siamo, from the always-impressive Chef Hilary Sterling.

Kayla: Broken Country + I Sodi

I Sodi in West Village is a jewel-box trattoria beloved for its lasagna and ritualistic simplicity—equal parts intimacy, precision, and tenderness. Pairs well with Broken Country by Clare Lesley Hall, a book that stuck with me for its powerful prose on the threads that bind us through decades, much like the delicately constructed I Sodi lasagne.

Courtney: Workhorse + Jupiter

You can always count Courtney in for a story on the wild world of New York’s prestigious fashion magazine scene. To tide her over until Devil Wears Prada 2, she’s been intrigued to read Caroline Palmer’s Workhorse, which follows an editorial assistant as she competes with wealthy colleagues to climb the ranks. A book like that deserves a glitzy setting in the heart of Manhattan’s media empires, such as Clare de Boer’s snazzy Italian eatery Jupiter, right in Rockefeller Center.

Kayla: The Guest + Pearl Box

Pearl Box in Soho is an upstairs cocktail lounge draped in 1970s-velvet glamour—red-carpeted stairs, mirrored walls, caviar, and a signature candy box that makes every martini feel like an event. Pairs well with The Guest by Emma Cline, intoxicating, elusive, and the kind of read that will give you the same hangover as Pearl Box.

Thank you so much to Courtney for joining me to create this piece. Wishing a very Happy Women’s History Month to all!! xxKD